Fill the hub until the oil is just under the level of the fill plug. This part is press fit and glued into the spindle and is all but impossible to remove. When installing a new style seal make sure you remove this old 2nd piece. I found that 8 to 13 ft lbs is just barely snug and much lighter then I would have imagined. Pull your halfshaft and spindle, inspect the mating surface of the seal and if it seems in good to better then shape no gouges, runs, or missing material reach in behind the seal lip and pull out the spring that holds the form of the lip. If you are using the 2 piece kit the second seal goes on with the thick side facing the large diameter studded part of the seal while the thin side faces the geared hub.
The recess is there to compensate for the thickness of the V seal. This way you can keep the seal even as you're driving it in. If it bubbles you have air leaking from the cti system into the hub. I personally use the Type 2 military 8 slot version on all my geared hubs. Taking care that the bearings and spacers are in the correct order and direction insert the spindle into hub while aligning the splines on the inside of the hub gear. If you look closely at it you will notice the spring actually screws in nose to tail. Once the clampnut is removed the whole spindle assembly right pulls out.
Stick a short piece of hose on the geared hub breather fitting and put the other end under water. Remove the snap ring with a pair of snap ring pliers. . A tip from the military. It will save you bigger problems down the road especially if you're out in the woods, maybe a little money, or if you caught it soon enough a bigger leak and complete blowout of the seal.
If your halfshaft has metal dust shields take a screwdriver, pop them off and throw them away. If your tires are going flat you may have a bad spindle seal. He said that there was no way to get a punch into the hole. Pull the breather line at each hub and check for air leaks. I grease the tierod end since it's been moved around when the hub cover was off. You must use the correct Locktite and follow the torque specs very carefully.
Push the hub all the way in and seat the sealing surface of the spindle into the plastic seal. If you are working on the rear you can't apply the parking brakes. The lines can get brittle and crack off pieces of rubber clogging the line. Make sure you keep the new seal square. Enter your name: optional Enter the code below: This product hasn't received any reviews yet. Why all the Locktite on the clampnut? This is what holds the spindle and wheel on the truck and you don't ever want these parts to fall off.
There is a small socket-head capscrew that holds the nut in place by pinching the two halves of the nut together after it is tightened onto the spindle threads. Because the clampnut and clampnut lock screw are secured with Locktite red 272 the whole operation must be completed within 10 minutes before the locktite dries. Since you are right there I'd remove the vent line and make sure that it's clear. I'm usually too lazy to use a torque wrench on the fill and drain plugs. If it isn't clean it up or replace it. I use the old seal to drive the new one in place.
The 1 piece kit doesn't have the V seal. I have a hex key that I made out of a larger size hex key. The washer is installed first, then the nut is installed. Coat the whole part around all 4 holes. If the spindle extension surface is damaged or not smooth it will not seal air.
If you don't have to replace it you are better off not touching it. Clean the oil off the inside of the tire and wheel with some engine degreaser and reinstall. One consists of a set of 2 seals hard and soft and the other is a single hard seal. Don't forget to replace the snap ring. Overview of the Spindle Nut The spindle nut is located at the geared hub 1 per wheel inside the steering gear cover, where the braided line screws into the back of the geared hub. Remove the output seal and clean the seal seat. The material seals are made of really doesn't stay overly plyable long when mated to 90w or synthetic and not used on a daily to weekly basis.
Washers will also be very shiny metallic, almost mirrorlike in finish. Coat the new seal with some hub oil and gently tap it in with a rubber mallet. I use Locktite 242 blue on these bolts and torque them to 75 ft lbs. The V seal is not that dimensionally precise that you need to get the main seal in within a thousandth of an inch. If this site has helped you consider a Donation.
Mark a temporary line across end of spindle and clamp nut. Unscrew it, take a fine or very sharp set of wire cutters, nip off about 5 or 6 coils on the tail side and screw it back together. The tool comes with a stack of different diameter disks and a large steel washer. The photo on the left shows the cleaned up output seal seat. Replace screw with a new one or remove all previously applied Loctite from threads of old screw and apply fresh Loctite 272 to old screw threads prior to reinstallation. Acquire new screw and nut and repeat steps.