The instrument cluster reading is roughly the same. We pulled and checked the speed sensor on the transmission. Thanks I have a multiple problems, first my transmission is new but it does not changes gear I had that problem before I installed the new transmission, I have to move the gears manually. What I recommend is to see if you can get one at a salvage yard. It never slammed into gear, and it never went back into limp mode. Finding the correct direct replacement module is very difficult in the used market, say at the salvage yard or online and you don't know what you're getting. It shifted up and down perfectly, and drove as if it was new.
If battery voltage exists, go to next step. I have a 94 Chevy k2500 Silverado package vin N 4l80 completely stock the speedo doesn't work, changed the vss at transfer case nothing checked ac volts from vss to buffer good, checked wire from buffer to cluster good, tried 3 total buffers still nothing. It's the ring that's installed on the tail shaft that makes all the difference. Check for battery voltage between harness connector Brown wire and ground. Posted on Oct 17, 2009 sounds like your vehicle speed sensor is broken. This module undergoes the same testing and verification as our other service modules.
No cable so it must be electronic. Possible fix is a piece of foam between the connector strip and the cluster plastic to add more tension to the connection on the top. I have no way of identifying the wire and pin number for the connector that carries the speedo and odo signal. As the vehicle speed increases the number of voltage pulses per second increases. Nor, are you reading the data from the speed buffer module.
His explanation of the problem was that a speed sensor He called it a wheel sensor, but I knew what he meant was causing his vehicle to not go any faster than 40mph. I have no idea how to proceed on this. The sensor was old and dirty but the connector was fresh and clean. Money dictates where these folks will go to get their car fixed. Also need to know about that vacuum line and what it does if anything.
The signal was all over the place. Would rather not take it into a transmission shop if it is something minor. Repair to reduce the 'pin' height also could work. The common law of business balance prohibits paying too little and getting a lot --- it cannot be done, it is well to add something for the risk you run. Voltage should change as wheel speed increases or decreases. For example, the shift from park to drive will move the wheels just enough to register about 11mph! In preparation for ordering We need to know your gear ratio and tire size, additionally we will need to know the what module you have now remove it to provide broadcast code big letters and part number number under big letters. I'm now getting ridiclous speed readings.
The 4 sensor system takes it speed references from each of the wheels. A couple times on the drive home, it would flip up to speed and then back to zero. At that point, the speedometer stopped working and the truck only had 2nd gear. Before hooking up a meter directly to the speed sensor Which was the next step I thought I would put it up on a lift and take a look at the sensor. Disconnect Orange wire at blower motor. We can calibrate for gear ratio or tire size combinations with great granularity with factory quality.
Connect test light between ground and blower switch wire associated with position of switch. If Orange wire is okay, go to step 3. Looking at the prints showed one more thing to think about. This module carries no support. This is from my 1993 S-Series Helm service manual. My cousin told me that I have to changes the ignition switch.
You could have told me about this when you dropped it off… might have been helpful. If test light glows, replace blower motor. If wiring is okay, replace vehicle speed sensor. It's possible they are incorrect. The 2nd speed sonsor in the trans is a dummy to fill the hole. So I got a new used known to be working gauge cluster from War Wagon here. Without that info you can check the condition of the connector again concentrating at the top center left position where I noted the damage.
You'd have to know what signal the 89 Blazer is putting out and what signal the 96 S10 is putting out. The speedo was jumping erratically, slinging from 0 all the way to its max, and the transmission was stuck in limp mode from the very moment I got it up to speed. One of the things that I noticed was that if I cleared the code it would shift normally for several trips around the block, before it slammed back into limp mode. Then check it's condition at the connector. If the computer doesn't know the vehicle is moving, then it won't shift the trans. I also did not get a chance to take in what you did at the cluster receptor plug other than noting there were electrical tabs that were sorta spring tensioned that connected with the cluster when it was shoved in.
Make absolutely sure the vehicle is stable. Their opinion of every technician out there comes down to the same inevitable answer. This is a tricky one. On a 4 cylinder engine, there is only 1 bank and it is always referred to as Bank 1. If test light does not glow, repair open Black wire between blower motor connector and instrument panel ground connector.